There’s nothing I love seeing more than older women who are lifelong surfers, particularly those who’ve navigated raising children whilst regularly getting wet. Women so often take on the lion’s share of childrearing and domestic responsibilities and it’s so heartening to see and learn about women that have lived such lives, and are who I’d consider role models.
Jeannie Chesser’s a great example. She’s 70, surfs Ala Moana Bowls every day and just surfed Kelly Slater’s wave pool (captured above by @ryantfoley)! Most notably she’s also endured some horrendous losses in life and has found her way forward whilst keeping surfing close to her heart.
Read the full interview with Jeannie on Sea Together here.